36 Hours in Neukölln

Exploring Berlin's Coolest Neighborhood
From time to time, I see lists that mention how cool Neukölln is, and every time I read these lists, they suggest, pretty much, the same places over and over again. Based on that, I decided to put my years of living in Neukölln as proof that I know the neighborhood well enough to come up with a guide. A simple guide, 36 hours in Neukölln, where you don’t leave the community and see everything that I believe you need to see here.

I have been living in Neukölln since early 2012 when I moved to Berlin. At first, my goal was to find an apartment in Friedrichshain, Kreuzberg, or Mitte since those were the only Berlin districts that I visited during my first trip to Berlin in the Summer of 2011. When I got here, I realized that everybody was looking for flats in those areas as well. Then I decided to go a bit further away and try out some other parts of the city.




This is how I landed in Neukölln, and I remember being surprised when I mentioned to people that I lived there. Most of the reactions I got at the time were not positive ones. Still, I seriously doubt most of these people ever set foot in the neighborhood for more than one evening of drinking. So, I ignored those opinions and continued to live here.

Years have passed since I moved to Rathaus Neukölln, and I cannot see myself living in any other part of the city. Coming from Brazil, I can see my home country in the chaos of the streets and the multicultural presence that you see anywhere you walk around. Neukölln isn’t what you expect to see in Berlin when you visit the city for the first time, but this is why this is such an exciting city to visit.

Historically, Neukölln has been on the outskirts of Berlin for a while. After the Second World War, the district was stuck between the Berlin Wall on one side and the United States Air Force base at Tempelhof on the other. Because of this, the neighborhood became a hub for immigrants and guest workers that were looking for cheap rent next to the city center. Even David Bowie liked walking around the area and even dedicated a song to it.

A decade ago, or something like that, the district’s cheap rents and multicultural vibes were discovered by students, ex-pats, and international artists and creative professionals. They moved in were Arabs, Turks, and Kurds were living and created what defined Neukölln as the coolest Berlin neighborhood.

Nowadays, you walk around the mains streets – Hermannstrasse, Karl Marx Strasse, and Sonnenallee – and you can see a mixture of kebab shops, trendy cafes, betting places, and fancy dive bars. But, every time you take a different street, you will find something new to discover. This is why I love Neukölln, and I hope that, by the end of this guide, you can find the time to learn to love it as well.




36 Hours in Neukölln: A Short Guide to Berlin’s Coolest Neighborhood

36 Hours in Neukölln, First Day – Morning

If you are arriving in Berlin from Tegel or Schonefeld, either way, you will start your tour of Neukölln in the edge of the neighborhood at Hermanplatz. Leave your subway here and find your way towards Sonnenallee. In the backstreets of what some people decided to call Kreuzkölln is where you will find your hotel.

Hüttenpalast is more than a hotel, this place is an experience. There you will find large factory-like rooms decorated with old school caravans and huts where you will be spending the night.

Back in 2015, we spent a weekend there, and it was so adorable and unique that we don’t have any problems in advising people to stay there.

First Day – Lunch Time

After setting up everything at Hüttenpalast, it’s time to go out and explore some of the tastes that Neukölln has to offer. My advice here is simple: go to Pannierstrasse. There you will have a few options depending on what you feel like trying out and the weather outside.

One of my favorite burgers in Berlin can be found there. Berlin Burger International has some cheap and filling burgers. But, if burgers are not what you want, you should try the spätzle from Schwabylon in the same block. For some coffee and dessert, you should go to Two and Two in the same neighborhood. They have some of the best coffee in the area and my favorite chocolate cake in Berlin.

Close by, two other places could be interesting as well. You could go for pizzas at Gazzo or mantis at Gözleme. Both are amazing, so I decided to add them as further choices.

First Day – Afternoon

After lunch, I’d take a walk around the area with a beer in my hand and explore the beauty of the Landwehrkanal that splits Neukölln from Kreuzberg. It’s easy to sit by the water and have some brews while you see the trees, the boats and the people walking by. It’s one of my favorite pastimes during the summer months, and I feel like you should try it as well.

North of Maybacher Uffer, close to Kottbusser Dam, there is a twice-weekly outdoor Turkish market with a vast range of fresh produce, textiles, and lots more. It’s open every Tuesday and Friday, and you should visit if you have the time.

If you follow the Landwehrkanal south, you will get close to where the waterway splits in three. Treptow, Kreuzberg, and Neukölln are separated by the water, and this is where the Berlin Wall used to stand. Which makes this walk a little historical.

If you want to window shop, head to Weserstrasse, where hip shops are selling vintage clothes and works from local designers. There you will find Crazy Bastard Sauce and their tremendous and fantastic spicy sauce selection. You should taste some of them and buy everything you can carry.

First Day – Early Evening

Now, it’s time for some early evening beers, and the options I have here are quite the opposite. One of them is Lager Lager, a small craft beer bar famous for its tasty beer. And the other is Klunkerkranich, a hipster beer garden on top of a local mall with some of the best panoramic views that you can have in Neukölln.

Another place you could try is Das Gift, a cozy bar with a friendly crowd and lots of options of beers and whiskeys.

After beers, it’s time to grab something to a snack before you head somewhere else. Try the fantastic Turkish food at Imren. This place is an institution in Neukölln and the standard when it comes to taste in döners. Forget the long queues at the other place in Mehringdam. Imren is the place for döners in Berlin.

First Day – Night

If you want to party a little bit more, you should head to Loophole. Located in a former brothel, this is one of the best places to listen to experimental music. Another exciting site is Sameheads that can provide you some live music that will last you an entire evening.

But if you are looking for something else, check out who is playing at KM28 since there is always a great musician playing there, ranging from jazz to folk and electronic music.

36 Hours in Neukölln, Second Day – Morning

If you want to have a breakfast of kings, there are two places where you need to go. One of them offers my favorite brunch, and I always bring my friends and family there once they are in town. This place is called Barettino, and they serve breakfast food the entire day, which is something great that I can share with people. Once there, don’t forget to try their brownies.

Another option is Roamers, where you will find the best coffee in Neukölln and, maybe, Berlin. This is a small cafe, so be prepared to arrive there a little bit earlier than usual and grab a table. Their breakfast options are all good but focus on the coffee and the cappuccino while there.

Second Day – Afternoon

After breakfast, it’s time to go for a walk to the historical center of Neukölln. We’re going to go south on Sonnenallee and visit Rixdorf, which was the name of the district before the Berlin Act of 1920 that shaped the city as we know it today.

On the walk there, you may want to stop at Konditorei Damaskus, where you will find some of the best Arabic sweets ever. I wasn’t a big fan of these types of sweets before, and everything changed once I visited this shop. This is how good they are.

Back on track, let’s talk a little bit about Rixdorf. This community founded in 1737 by Bohemian refugees, and today you can walk around small streets and see how the city used to look like a century ago. There are houses in back alleys that look like they stopped in time and, if you are in Berlin in early December, there is even the Alt-Rixdorf Christmas market.

I brought you to Rixdorf so you can see how different Neukolln can be if you know where to look. But there is more. On Richardplatz, in front of Berlin’s oldest smithy, there is an Austrian restaurant called Louis where you can find the biggest schnitzel in Berlin. I always try to bring out of town friends there so I can see their faces when the schnitzel arrives. This is the perfect place for a late lunch, followed by a walk in the neighborhood since you will need to stretch your legs to help with digestion.

The walk should lead to the gorgeous Körnerpark, a neo-baroque park that looks like it belongs in a fairy tale book. Hidden in the back streets of Neukölln, this park is a well-hidden secret that only locals know.

Now, it’s time to finish your walk with a sunset view on Tempelhof. Most of the park lay in the district called Tempelhof-Schöneberg, but the east side of it is in Neukölln. I know I’m bending some rules, but I don’t care since I love going there either way.

The area around this part of Neukölln is called Schillerkiez and is one of the most exciting parts of the neighborhood. There you will find cool music shops like Common Ground and Staalplaat. And great cafes like Two Planets and Isla Coffee. You should definitely explore it further.

Second Day – Evening

My advice here is to end this second-day exploring Neukölln with beers. If you followed my tips, you might be close to my favorite craft beer bar in Neukölln: Muted Horn. There you will find a lot of options for fantastic craft beer, but there is a special place there for those who like sour beers. If this is your case, you know you have to come.

Next to Tempelhof, there are more options for bars if craft beer is not your drug of choice. Brauhaus Neulich is an excellent place to sit down, relax, and listen to some DJs playing. Close to it, there is Keith Bar with lots of options for drinks and excellent service. But if you want something more authentic, something more Berlin in the 90s, I have the place for you. Syndicat is a punk bar straight from the time when Berlin was famous for its squats and crazy parties. And it’s one of my favorite bars in town.

After your beers, don’t go back to Hüttenpalast with an empty stomach. Try some of my favorite pizza in town at Pizza Pause. This is an underwhelming looking place with some really great tasting pizza.

Hüttenpalast

Berlin Burger International

Schwabylon

Two and Two

Gazzo Pizza

Gözleme

Crazy Bastard Sauce

Landwehrkanal

Lager Lager

Klunkerkranich

Das Gift

Imren

Loophole

KM28

Sameheads

Barettino

Roamers

Rixdorf

Konditorei Damaskus

Louis

Körnerpark

Tempelhof

Common Ground

Staalplaat

Isla Coffee

Two Planets

Muted Horn

Brauhaus Neulich

Keith Bar

Syndicat

Pizza Pause

This is it. Your 36 hours in Neukölln has come to an end, and I hope you had your share of fun, good food, great beer, and lovely walks in the neighborhood I decided to call home. But, if you are looking for more places to explore and things to do in Neukölln, I have some articles for you.

Maybe, you can try to look for the only statue of Lenin in West Berlin. The Schulenburg Park is quite an exciting place to visit as well and Blub used to be a famous water park in Berlin but now lays abandoned, maybe it’s your time to visit it.

36 Hours in Neukölln: Exploring Berlin’s Coolest Neighborhood

If you want to use this as a reference for your future visit to the area, the map a may be useful to you. Check it out.





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